A cartoon concludes as Freebird turns into a storefront movie theater

March 30, 2008
This past Friday, Aleksey Budovskiy (seen to the left in silhouette at the projector's helm) won the capacity crowd over with his rare cartoons from Russia. An amazing selection that included work by his colleagues Aleksandr Tatarskiy, Mikael Aldashin, Ivan Maximov, Zoya Kireeva, Sergey Gordeev, and Konstantin Bronzit, Aleksey concluded with animated shorts of his own creation. He's promised to return and show other pieces from his considerable film library. He was here in between film festivals, where he's currently touring his latest film, "Last Time in Clerkenwell," in which a Royal Legion of birds use London as their base of power to expand their Bird Empire beyond the earth's boundaries. It's an accompanying video for the group (The Real) Tuesday Weld, who he has collaborated with before (on the first chapter of his bird saga: "Bathtime in Clerkenwell"). Both have won him a good deal of acclaim, including jury prizes at festivals in the US, Russia, Europe, and Canada. But he's also lent his considerable humor and vision to commercials and educational shorts, like this recent series on teaching kids the basics of English: Dog.

* * *
Aleksey was here as part of our Russia! Magazine series, which Michael Idov and Boris Kachka have been coordinating. By happenstance, Matvei Yankelevich (the first speaker in the series) delivered the latest releases from his small press, Ugly Duckling. For those not familiar with Ugly Duckling Presse, they are an independent, non-profit publisher operating out of Brooklyn's Can Factory at 3rd and 3rd in the Gowanus neighborhood (and home to a slew of arts organizations and businesses like Issue Project Room, fellow publishers Akashic and Archipelago, and Lite Brite Neon). Freebird is one of UDP's partner bookstores, and we carry a number of their titles, including their 6x6 magazine, which sells for a dirt cheap $3. All of their books are limited runs, letter press, and beautifully bound productions. Matvei sent a graphic novel by Ava Fedorov called Book of Fears and a new collection of poetry by Eugene Ostashevsky. Entitled Morris Imposternak, Pursued By Ironies, it follows the travails of sad sack Morris as he ponders love and loss. I have just finished Yuri Olesha's 1927 madcap satire of Soviet life, Envy, and I can't help but find Morris a kindred spirit of that novel's thwarted protagonist, Nikolai Kavalerov. Eugene is a frequent translator who, like Matvei, has been instrumental in bringing Daniil Kharms's tricky idiomatic Russian stories to English readers. And like Kharms, Eugene has a wry grasp of his character's wrenching search for meaning:

What is the point of anything when everything has an end?

The world is like


The fiddling of a deaf musician in an empty room
He finishes, bows--to whom?--and modestly leaves


And then there's silence.
How is the silence afterwards different from the silence during?
* * *
Finally, the store has a kind of bayou feel to it at the moment as the city moves closer to completing their work on Columbia Street. There is progress, but at that blazing municipal pace. However, we encourage you to revel in the rare opportunity to see Freebird with a front yard (it won't last past this week) and walk the gangplank into our space. The backyard--weather permitting--is open.
--Peter Miller


Endpapers from Dining in New York (1930)

March 25, 2008
Michael Dashkin, a frequent contributor to this site with his photographs, wrote for us a 5-part article on several old restaurant guides he unearthed in our New York section (which takes up an entire wall in the front of the store). This week's blog entry frames the genre and is given over to Michael's analysis of a rare 1920s guide, when New York was just becoming aware of its gastronomic variety:



* * *


It's a fortunate accident that any copies of old New York City restaurant guides have survived. By old, I mean guides published in the 1920s through the 60s and into the 70s. Ephemeral material, these books weren’t intended to be held on to for long. Like today’s guides and web sites, they were published to offer current, practical suggestions for tourists or native New Yorkers simply looking for dining ideas.



Most of them served their humble purpose and were discarded soon after they were published. But if they hung on to reach the mature age of 10, 15 or more years, they started to take on a second life, becoming guide books for anyone who wants to step back in time to explore not just the culinary past, but the city's manners, habits, people and neighborhoods, too. Like photographs, the copies that survived become more interesting as they get older, reflecting both a changed city and changing tastes.



These guide books – the older ones, at least – portray a restaurant world very different from our own. The manners of diners and waiters both are more formal, even at the less expensive establishments. The nouvelle cuisine hasn’t been invented yet. With the exception of Japanese, Chinese and a scattering of Indian restaurants, there were few Asian establishments.



There were once many more Russian and Spanish restaurants in Manhattan, reflecting émigré communities in flight from revolution and civil war. There were an awful lot more German and Scandinavian places back then. Of course, there were no Starbucks and other corporate chains, but there were Schrafft’s, the Automat, Hicks and quite a few other local chains.




* * *


George Chappell’s The Restaurants of New York, published in 1925, is the oldest guide I looked at. He’s a somewhat reluctant restaurant critic anyway and, to make matters worse, his friends try to discourage him from even attempting the project:



Twenty years ago, yes – It might have been possible to write an “Outline of Eating,” for then, if ever, was the Golden Age of Gastronomy on the Island of Manhattan. But the removal of Delmonico’s to it’s ephemeral quarters ‘uptown,’at Forty-Forth Street, forsooth! Wrote ‘Finis’ to a chapter. It was the end of an era, the break-up of a dynasty.



Sound familiar? You should have been here twenty years ago when giants walked the earth? In fact though, Chappell was writing at an interesting moment in the city’s restaurant history. As we read we see the diversity and complexity of New York restaurant life as we now know it beginning to take shape.



Chappell wasn’t a chef or restaurateur or even a food critic by profession (in this, he was like most of the guide writers). He was an architect by training and wrote architecture criticism for the New Yorker and Vanity Fair. But he had a real feeling for the hold that food has on people’s stomachs, certainly, but on their memories, too:



…The mere mention of an ancient eating place will evoke a clear vision of our favorite dish, be it the humble corned beef and cabbage, a particular pastry, or a glorious goulash. Say “Keen’s” to me and I see a blue-plate dinner worked into a design as beautiful as a Spanish tile; “Browne’s,” and a massive chop with a tender kidney coiled in its embrace; the “Brevoort,” and a squab chicken en casserole





He wrote a guide book that contemporary readers would probably find a million faults with. He sometimes forgot to provide a restaurant’s address, he never gave the phone number and he didn’t often describe the dishes served (frustrating for a reader today who would actually like to know what people were eating back then). But he made up for these shortcomings by offering brief, charming sketches of the various restaurants’ rooms, décor, owners, staff and patrons.



* * *



Chappell covers a lot of territory, eating his way from Wall Street, through Greenwich Village, and up Broadway and Park Avenue, stopping along the way to drink, dance and offer a brief history of the supper club (“The first super clubs were distinctly rowdy”).



One of my favorite chapters covers “the little restaurants” of midtown:



Every side street in New York bristles with small restaurants, neighborhood places which care for their particular sections…They are the feeding places of the average citizen.



Before skyscrapers took over midtown, there were numerous modest Italian, French and American teashops and table d’hote in the area and we glimpse the neighborhood as it was before it became a corporate business and tourist district.



A chapter entitled “the foreign feeding grounds” is, perhaps inevitably, a somewhat discomforting period piece (“Strange odors will be encountered and queer, unknown tastes”). Among others, he visits Chinatown, the German restaurants of Yorkville on the Upper East Side, discovers Syrian restaurants near Bowling Green and dines at perhaps the first Japanese restaurant in New York, Miyako (“You may be baffled by the bamboo chopsticks and the general absence of the usual tools, but spoons are not lacking if desired”).



Chappell’s work is a genteel precursor to the modern guide book, charming for its unhurried pace and lack of the pigeonhole categories and telegraphic descriptions we associate with modern guides.



--Michael Dashkin



Next week's entry will examine the next generation of guides as exemplified by Rian James's 1930 work, Dining in New York.


Brian Cogan channels Dick Cheney as Ken Wohlrob (to the right and wearing the blue shirt) looks on

March 23, 2008

Thanks to Rachel London, the founders of the Blacksmiths For Literary Progress--Ken Wohlrob, Brian Cogan, Tim Hall, and Mike Faloon--returned to Freebird and read to a standing room only crowd (see right). We also celebrated the release of Ken Wohlrob's first collection of short stories, The Love Book, which is on sale now at Freebird. The rest of the gang have books forthcoming, including a novel (Full of It by Tim Hall), an encyclopedia of punk (Brian Cogan), and a collection of essays and stories from the mastermind behind the 'zine, Go Metric (Mike Faloon).

Curated by Rachel, this series will feature novelists, short story writers, poets, and musicians one weekend every month. Taking time off in April to have a baby, Rachel has scheduled readings with Sara Goodyear and Fiona Maazel (7 pm, Sunday, May 18), Joshua Furst and Jim Shepard (7 pm, Sunday, June 8), and Nick Flynn (7 pm, Sunday, July 6).

After Saturday night's reading, Ken Wohlrob and I talked about Mavis Gallant and her influence on his writing. We'll pursue that discussion further in another blog, but the subject arose after he spotted her Paris Stories in our new display of NYRB classics. It's easy to fetishize these strikingly designed reissues (see the photo to the left of how they look together spine out on our shelves) but they are actually a remarkable library of obscure and forgotten literature that are never stuffy or dated in style.

In fact many of my favorite editions are comic rants and dark satires, far more iconoclastic (and delightfully bizarre) than anything generated by the literary workshop mill today. Currently I'm reading two translated works of Soviet-era subterfuge, Yuri Olesha's hilarious Envy (in which a sausage magnate is tormented by, and in turn torments, a houseguest) and Andrey Platonov's more somber Soul (a parable about a Central Asian nation under the Stalinist thumb).

While those writers were outside the mainstream--which any writer worth his salt was in the Soviet Union--they were still part of a movement, no matter how subterranean. The same can't be said of several of the NYRB stable who had no training or literary precedents. Malcolm Braly was an ex-con when he wrote his masterpiece (and one of the best novels I've read in the last 10 years) about prison life: On the Yard. G.V. Desani came out of nowhere, or perhaps everywhere (the Kenyan-born child of Indians, self-taught, free spirit, and restless globe trotter), when he wonderfully twisted the English language like a clown balloon in All About H. Hatterr.

On the other hand, G.B. Edwards proved a lifetime on an island (Guernsey) is not a crimp on the imagination. Considered a crackpot when he peddled his plotless novel to publishers in the sixth decade of his life, The Book of Ebenezer Le Page, is a weird yet entertaining chronicle of a crank suffering through world upheaval. And then there is Fr. Rolfe, who was so arrogant about his intelligence and embittered about being refused the priesthood (though note how he fashioned his name to look like a cleric) that he exacted revenge in Hadrian the Seventh--a wild fantasy in which an angry, vindictive English priest is plucked from obscurity by the college of Cardinals and elected Pope.

But these don't do justice to some of the other works NYRB is resurrecting and what we will try keep in stock, from Georges Simenon's roman durs, Curzio Malaparte's astounding World War II novel Kaputt (with haunting imagery based on his first hand experience reporting from the German front lines), and Edward Lewis Wallant's book about a New York slum lord losing control of his tenants (The Tenants of Moonbloom).
--Peter Miller

Louis Masur discussing Stanley Forman's Pulitzer prize-winning photo, "The Soiling of Old Glory" (this store photo was taken by Michael Dashkin)

March 21, 2008
Last night, with the wind blowing along the waterfront and playing harmonica through our front windows (on the podcast it sounds like a swarm of bees), Louis Masur sat in the big chair and led a slide presentation on the subject of his new book, The Soiling of Old Glory. I have to admit that Lou is a long time friend who I just happen to be publicist for in my publishing day job. That conflict of interest aside, his book is an important one, which touches on the power of photography to shock, enlighten, suggest, and mislead.

The photograph in question was taken by Stanley Forman, a spot news shutterbug working for the Boston Herald-American, on April 5, 1976. It was the year of the Bicentennial and America was feeling good about itself. It was the week of Lent, and across the street from the Old State House on sanctified Boston ground (site of the Boston Massacre two centuries prior). Liberal, progressive Boston was still in the throngs of a public relations nightmare. For two years running, white Southie was still refusing to abide by court order to integrate their schools through busing. Yet another protest was staged for Government Plaza.

High school students marched on the City Hall and in rapid succession it dissolved into a street fight that was over in a few blinks of an eye. But in those blinks was caught an iconic image taken by Forman, who arrived late for the rally and through dumb luck had a unique perspective on an amazing moment. A white teen wielded a flag at a black passerby. The imagery was stunning as it flashed across the front page of the Herald-American the next day--and later across the nation. The teenager was poised mid-thrust at a restrained African-American lawyer dressed in a white three-piece suit. When the photo was submitted to the Pulitzer committee (which it would win), it was titled "The Soiling of Old Glory." And the name fit. Few photos were as unnerving in the juxtaposition of patriotism and racism. If Joe Rosenthal's 1945 Iwo Jima photo (see to the right) of a flag raising symbolized America at its apotheosis, "The Soiling of Old Glory" was the nation at its nadar.

But what did the photo reveal and hide? Lou Masur spent 45 minutes leading us through the history of imagery of African Americans and of the flag (podcast will be up shortly). Beginning with the ways in which slaves were photographed for scientific and propaganda purposes, he showed how technology--particularly the invention of half tones--disseminated this material through newsprint and books. One of the "quiet crimes" of photography was the documenting of lynching for souvenir purposes in the early 20th century. Jacob Riis took his camera and flash powder to the "dark places of America" to reveal inequalities (such as Black and Tan Dive pictured to the left). Later Gordon Parks would parody Grant Wood's American Gothic painting in his photograph of a DC charwoman, Ella Watson. Recently, in Vanity Fair, David Margolick tracked down the figures framed by Will Counts in his 1957 snap of white protesters spitting on a black student seeking entry to a Little Rock high school--perhaps one of the most visceral images of racial hatred ever recorded by a camera.

Yet what made Stanley Forman's photo unique then and now, was the use of the flag not to unify but to divide. Running us through his contact sheet (only 22 pictures were taken--some double exposed, cracked by a malfunctioning motor drive) revealing a chaotic scene that, uncropped, was perhaps less dramatic that we might imagine. The flag was not actually thrust at the victim, Ted Landsmark, but swung. It never made contact. Left out was that Landsmark was beaten the old fashioned way, with fists. However, Forman and his editors knew that the image had power and told a story unlike any other--that struck at the very racism even enlightened Boston was not immune to.

The next day Ted Landsmark, dramatically bandaged for greater effect, gave an amazing speech taking advantage of the moment, but not for himself. Rather than faulting the teenagers who attacked him, he criticized a system that masks class differences through racism. Landsmark, the Yale-educated lawyer and labor advocate who marched from Selma to Montgomery with Martin Luther King, took the high road. But he knew the potency of that image, whether or not it revealed the reality of the moment. He was likened, and not with resistance from Landsmark, as a 20th century Crispus Attucks. The graphic renderings of the Boston Massacre (see right) are striking in their similarity.

I'll leave it at this point, because there are so many more issues that Lou raises in his talk and more importantly in his book, which we have on sale at Freebird. But he concluded with the question that so many people have. What about the white attacker? What was he thinking? Where did he end up? Lou was lucky enough to be one of the few permitted an interview. Older now, he looks back and says "I was a kid and I fucked up." But without apology. Those comments frame Lou's book and suggest that the dialogue over race in this country is incredibly complicated and, as Barack Obama's recent position speech (spoken in front of a virtual forest of American flags) reiterated, neverending.
--Peter Miller


March 2, 2008
So William F. Buckley died. A great deal of space has been put aside to talk about his influence over American political discourse between Goldwater's defeat and Reagan's victory. His disciples are busy cranking out columns extolling his conservative virtues and impeccable vocabulary, but I'd like to point out his monumental contributions to television. Firing Line, though it bewildered me as a kid as some sort of kabuki caricature of outlandish Thurston Howell accents, preserved wonderful interviews with figures who are seldom permitted to grace the airwaves today. And unlike Bill O'Reilly (I'm hard pressed to imagine who has inherited the intellectual conservative mantle on tv--Firing Line is pretty much a dead end), Buckley didn't set up his guests as buffoonish fall guys but sparring equals. YouTube has a few of the encounters he had with leading leftist thinkers of the day. But for my money, the most entertaining is this sock-puppet re-enactment of Allen Ginsberg's appearance in 1968:



But that was the sixties for you. Is it any wonder that Tom Wolfe built a career on caricaturing it? No doubt those extremes were symptomatic of a fractured culture. We've gone a long way towards healing it, but you can't help but miss those distinctive voices that made watching tv, going to the movies, listening to music, and most of all, reading, fun. Present day prose can come across so Strunk-and-Whited that reading feels like the literary equivalent of sipping tepid water. That gold standard, The New Yorker, is undoubtedly publishing the best of the best out there, but could anyone tell the difference between the writers if their pieces went unbylined? For that matter, would The New Yorker even dare publish a prose stylist as accented as A. J. Liebling any more?

In the shadow of Buckley's lengthy obits was the passing of another gifted stylist. W.C. Heinz, one of the great old-time sports writers, alongside the likes of Red Smith and Grantland Rice, died at the age of 93. His reportage, whether of a game or battlefield, was considered a forerunner of new journalism--you-are-there accounts that apparently at their best were word panoramas. Writing at the journalistic periphery for places like the old New York Sun and the now defunct men's magazine, True, Heinz (according to the LA Times obit) toyed with narrative and dialogue conventions. He would develop this style further in his fictional output, particularly The Professional, which I pulled from our shelves tonight. The Da Capo reprint edition has a loving intro from, fittingly, Elmore Leonard who wrote a fan letter to Heinz as early as 1958 (when Leonard was still penning Westerns). Heinz's stripped down and direct voice called to mind Hemingway who--after receiving a copy of The Professional from Toots Shor--became an admirer. Leonard reveals what influence the syntax and wording of the boxing novel had on his own writing:
The verb said nails it, gives it a beat. You don't need an answered, replied, suggested, averred, any of those. I learned also that you don't need an adverb to explain how the line of dialogue is said. "Adverbs get in the way," I now state authoritatively. They can destroy the rhythm of the sentence, distract, stop the flow of words cold. An adverb modifier is the author's word, not the character's; and if he is to remain invisible, his words must be kept out of the prose.

If there is even one adverb modifying the verb said in The Professional a copy editor slipped it in when Bill [Heinz] wasn't looking.

You cannot imagine how important it was for me to learn these unwritten rules of writing. I had been writing fiction, Westerns, for only the past seven years. I knew I didn't want to write in the classic style of the omniscient author, I didn't have the voice for it, the language. Studying Hemingway I felt I was getting close to the style I wanted to develop. I began reading The Professional and there it was on every page.
But from my own New York-obsessed perspective, Heinz was also pretty good at describing the city he worked in, without laying it on too thick like many of his contemporaries. Here's what I just read from the first chapter of The Professional:
The subway is elevated there. There is something wrong about that, but there are long sections of the subway in the Bronx where it comes up out of the ground and runs along high above the street like the El. I suppose that some day they will put that under the ground, too, and that will be unfortunate because you can see a lot of New York from there, the way it is now.

I mean that often, as long as three or four days after a rain, you can still see puddles of water glistening on the flat, tarred roofs and reflecting the sky. On a windy day you can see the gray metal ventilators, some of them spinning and the others, with vanes like manes, snapping their heads in the gusts, sensitive and nervous the way you sometimes see a thoroughbred going to the post and trying to ease the bit with the boy standing on him and first hoping to soothe him and then swearing at him, if you could just hear it.
Strangely the NY Times obit downplayed Heinz's literary output, consigning the same space (two paragraphs) to his fiction that they gave to William F. Buckley's forgettable spy novels. And almost an afterthought that I had to read it twice, the obit writer casually included that Heinz also co-wrote the novel, M*A*S*H. I've never read it, and no copies of that bestseller (which was published under the pseudonym Richard Hooker) can be found at the store, but I think we owe it to Mr. Heinz to have a Brooklyn suicide-is-painless wake in his honor.



So if you're around on Thursday, March 6, stop by and we'll screen the Robert Altman free-wheeling adaptation and counter-culture classic.
--Peter Miller